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Wing Tips

Wing Tips: Sizing


Image from Lordkit.com

It’s taboo to ask; it’s embarrassing to share; it’s one of your deepest secrets… It’s your size. It’s something that only you (and maybe your mom) know… But are you sure you know your size? Unless you’ve whipped out measuring tape and a size chart in the last few weeks, you may not. Even if you think you know that elusive one- or two-digit number, take our advice: Throw it out!  That abstract size number isn’t really what matters, in the long run; using your actual body measurements will always ensure you’re wearing clothing with a proper fit.

Once you have those measurements, you’ll need to compare them to your local or online retailer’s size chart.  Nearly every store you’ve ever seen and every designer you’ve ever heard of has one, and it corresponds directly to the garment size that will give you the best fit. The bad news? Every designer is different, yet relative to an international standard in which retailers take one size’s measurements and then draft a chart of proportionately corresponding sizes.   In short, a size chart is a table that connects the measurements of different places on your body and translates them into a garment size, and it’s a rare day that you’ll find two identical size charts.

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Your “size” at a given store is typically dependent on three or four different measurements: bust, waist (usually natural waist and/or low waist), hip, and for pants, inseam. Your measurements should be taken with a flexible measuring tape, such as the one in the photo at the top of this post.  If you find yourself without this crucial dressmaker’s tool, a length of string and a ruler will usually suffice.


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Bust: Take the tape and wrap it around your chest, putting the tape directly over the largest, fullest part of your bust.  (Do not measure around the ribcage, as if you’re measuring for a bra!)  This measurement is crucial when purchasing fitted tops or structured dresses and coats, because it is what a designer uses when grading the width of the top of the garment.

Waist: There are two measurements here:  your natural waist – the narrowest part of your midsection, usually at or just above your navel - and your low waist – generally where low-rise pants sit.  Consider where you envision the garment sitting on your body, wrap the tape around and find your measurement . (Make sure this is where the garment should be sitting, first.)

Hip: Measure around the fullest, widest part of your derriere, usually just below your hip bones.  If you’re unsure, stand in front of the mirror with your feet together and measure the widest-looking part of your hips.

Inseam: This is the measurement you always see men getting uncomfortable with in movies. Measure from your crotch all the way down to where you’d like your pants to end – be sure you’re considering whether you’ll be wearing flats or high heels with the garment in question! You’ll want an inch or two of extra length if you’re planning on wearing heels.  An easy way to do this, is to grab your favorite pair of pants (take ‘em off, if you’re wearing them!) and measure that inside seam.  (It’s easier to do this if the pants are inside-out.)

Tip!
Doing all of your measuring in front of a full length mirror will ensure that your tape measure is going straight across your body and not at an angle, which will add extra length.

Why the widest part of everything?

We measure the widest parts of ourselves as a precaution and, in a way, insurance that the garment will fit. That way, if one area of the garment fits, and another part is too loose, you can take the piece to a tailor to have the loose area taken in. It’s a lot more difficult to make a too-small garment larger.

gap-size-chart
Size Chart for Women’s Bottoms from GAP

Once you’ve got your measurements written down, you’re ready to compare notes with your garment manufacturer’s size chart. This part is particularly self-explanatory, except for one thing: You’ll never find your perfect size. If you do find a size chart that has your exact measurements corresponding to one of their sizes – be skeptical! When you’re 2 out of 3 with one of your body measurements in the next size up, take the larger size – as we said before, it’s easier to take a garment in than out.

One trend consumers are beginning to notice is Vanity Sizing.  Market research shows that most women are turned off by the idea of shopping in “plus size” stores or sections, or even buying double-digit sizes like a 10 or 12, and feel better about themselves when they buy a smaller size.   Based on this research, designers and retailers have begun labelling clothing with smaller sizes; where a woman used to be an 8, nowadays she is often a 6.

Remember, when you’re shopping, that not all size charts are created equally.  Be skeptical when purchasing.  Try the garment on when shopping in-store, and use a retailer’s listed size charts (make sure you know your measurements!) when shopping online.  Keeping these tips in mind will help you find the perfect fit – or, at the very least, something close.

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Discussion

9 Responses to “Wing Tips: Sizing”

  1. One tip that I’ve learned from a many corsetmakers… to help find your natural waist, put the waist tape on your waist, and then stretch from side to side. This will shift the measuring tape in to the narrowest point/your natural waistline.

    Ashe Mischief’s last blog post..Etsy/Indie Designers: Fun with Fascinators

    [Reply]

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    Posted by Ashe Mischief | March 18, 2009, 7:27 pm
  2. “where a woman used to be an 8, nowadays she is often a 6″

    Wow, that makes me really uncomfortable. I understand being apprehensive of buying larger sizes, but I don’t like that I’m essentially being lied to.

    I’ll never be able to feel “good” about fitting into a size 6 dress again.

    [Reply]

    Birdie Reply:

    Wait, wait, wait… the thing is, Leslie, you are the size you are, no matter who sizes and grades the pattern. US size numbers are sort of arbitrary in relation to standard sizing (though dress sizing seems to run smaller and deviate less from the standard, so you are probably still a 6!) – it’s commonly called catalog sizing in the industry.

    When you measure your bust, that number doesn’t change – whether you’re a 6 or an 8. Sizing is sort of a silly irrelevant number compared to a woman’s actual measurements. My trick: I try to stay unattached from the number label. Instead, try to determine whether or not the actual inch-by-inch clothing measurements fits your own.

    [Reply]

    Jennifer Nicole Reply:

    Exactly! I would rather have something that fits well and looks good than be able to brag about wearing a six (especially if I’m muffin-topping my jeans). No one sees that number but the girl wearing the pants, you know?

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    Posted by Leslie | March 20, 2009, 4:56 am

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